Friday, September 12, 2008

Day 7: Nashville, TN to Franklin, TN  [29 miles]


At the intersection of US 41 and Briley Parkway, Nashville, TN

I had hoped to arrive at one of the many hotels in Goodlettsville in order to put myself in position for a triumphant entrance into Nashville the next morning. Somehow I missed every facility along the way, and the sun set as I wheeled into northern Nashville. I finally found a cinderblock heap along the road, but it turned out the Budget Motel was an all-cash business. For another half hour, I biked in nearly total darkness on a four-lane highway with no shoulder, until I crested a ridge and a great sea of fluorescence opened up before me. I checked in at the Super 8 and ate a dinner of steak and eggs at the Waffle House next door.






















Near the corner of Fifth Avenue and Broadway, Nashville, TN

Parked in front of Tootsie's Orchid Lounge, some sort of electromagnetic disturbance caused my wireless bike computer to go haywire, reporting impossible speeds. As soon as I pulled away, the readings returned to normal.





At the Flying Saucer on Broadway, Nashville, TN

Since I was already in the neighborhood, I decided to stop in at the Flying Saucer, a remarkable pub and restaurant located in the former passenger terminal of Union Station.



At the Flying Saucer on Broadway, Nashville, TN

It's difficult to tell from this picture of Candace, but the waitresses at the Saucer dress in Catholic schoolgirl outfits.






On 21st Avenue, Nashville, TN

I passed through the neighborhood of Hillsboro Village, the scene of many good times over the last three years.



In front of the Green Hills Hampton Inn on Crestmoor Road, Nashville, TN

I couldn't resist grabbing a free oatmeal cookie at the hotel where I had spent so many nights over the last three years. The Hampton Inn is also where my friend Jimmy's pants were famously "already off."












On the town square, Franklin, TN

The Confederate soldier atop the plinth faces south rather than north, which reminded me dimly of a passage from Faulkner describing the monument in Jefferson's town square. I later dug up the reference in Requiem for a Nun:

"... neither the U.D.C. ladies who instigated and bought the monument, nor the architect who designed it nor the masons who erected it, had noticed that the marble eyes under the shading marble palm stared not toward the north and the enemy, but toward the south, toward (if anything) his own rear, looking perhaps ... for reinforcements; or perhaps not a combat soldier at all, but a provost marshal's man looking for deserters, or perhaps himself for a safe place to run to ...."









In front of Bosco's Brewery, Franklin, TN

I had dinner and drinks with friends at Bosco's. From left to right, they are Suprajha, Dan, Evan, Arun, Soumyajeet, and Srinivasa. Not pictured are Ed and Elijah, who had to leave early.



In front of Enterprise Rent-A-Car, Franklin, TN

Carrie from Enterprise Rent-A-Car gave me the thumbs up after I wheeled in and asked to rent a pickup truck.




In a room at the Cool Springs Marriott, Franklin, TN

I tore down the Surly in my room at the Marriott, using a few scraps of hotel linen to degrease the chain and gearing. The tour was complete!

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Day 6: Central City, KY to Nashville, TN  [87 miles]


On US 431, Central City, KY

I was warned as far back as Owensboro that I would find a couple good hotels in Central City, just not to stay at the Caronoda. But two of the good hotels were booked up, and the third had been destroyed by a tornado earlier in the year. As it turned out, Rocky the manager upgraded me to a double, and I had a great night's sleep.



On US 431, Central City, KY

As I pulled onto the highway, Rocky yelled good luck.



On US 431 north of Adairville, KY

The headwind was so strong that I could smell the sweet aroma of tobacco for a quarter mile before I reached this curing barn. A few miles down the road, I saw a closed barn with smoke pouring from the eaves, which I assumed was a fire-curing operation.






On the town square of Adairville, KY

In front of the IGA, I was welcomed into town by the mayor of Adairville, Mr James Wilkerson. I found out later that Adairville's town square was the location of the famous duel between Andrew Jackson and Charles Dickinson.















On US 41 south of Springfield, TN

Frank Capanear, also known as "Average Frank," rode his bike from home in Tucson, AZ, all the way to Jacksonville, FL, to raise money for the Wounded Warrior Project and also in support of his son, a Navy SEAL currently deployed in Iraq. His personal blog is at averagefrank.blogger.com, and his mission statement can be found here.


On US 41 south of Greenbrier, TN

I felt ridiculous riding a bicycle into a Sonic, but I badly wanted a strawberry milkshake. Sitting out on the patio, I had a good chat with Kim, who wished me a safe ride. Can you believe she has a daughter old enough to tend bar in East Nashville?

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Day 5: Dale, IN to Central City, KY  [76 miles]


On US 231 south of Gentryville, IN

This pinto trotted with me for thirty yards. I don't know anything about horses, but the blond mane and tail seemed unusual.



On US 231 north of Rockport, IN

The Rockport Generating Station is actually a coal-fired plant.



On Route 121 south of Patronsville, IN

I've been in the computer business too long. My first thought on seeing this farmstand sign was, how did these guys get their hands on the domain name sweet.com?












At the corner of Third Street and Saint Anne Street, Owensboro, KY

In Owensboro, I met the friendliest people so far this trip, including several groups of patrons at Colby's as well as the owner of the restaurant and his wife. Mollie and Judy invited me to sit at their table, and we chatted for at least half an hour. Judy gave me a hug before leaving.



At the corner of Third Street and Saint Anne Street, Owensboro, KY

Colby's is located in the Oddfellow's Building in downtown Owensboro.



On South Frederica Street, Owensboro, KY

The Campbell Club is a private dining establishment.



On South Frederica Street, Owensboro, KY

I met David at a Starbucks as I headed out of town. He's a long-haul trucker based in Bowling Green, KY. David has biked cross-country twice and actually brings his bike with him in the back of his cab when he's on the road. Great guy.



On US 431 north of Utica, KY

Heading south with a strong tailwind, I caught what would be the last flat of the tour. The weather was so beautiful that I didn't mind the diversion.






On US 431 south of Utica, KY

What little shoulder was available on US 431 had been corrugated by rumble strips.



On US 431, Island, KY

I stopped for a small cone at the Dairy Freeze and met a man by the name of Richard Avery who had seen me fixing my flat tire earlier in the day. Richard proved to be a fount of local knowledge, advising me to wait until 4pm when the coal trucks stopped running, and telling me stories about the history of the region. Apparently South Carrollton, a tiny hamlet I would pass through several miles down the road, grew so rich from steamboat traffic on the Green River that it once had its own university.