Day 1: Chicago, IL to Remington, IN [118 miles]

In front of the Piano Factory Lofts on West Altgeld Street, Chicago, IL

The trip got off to a rocky start when I left home with an extra ten to fifteen pounds. On my training rides, I had carried a set of textbooks to simulate the weight of my laptop and other gear, and I accidentally pulled away with the ballast still in my panniers.

At the corner of Addison Street and Southport Avenue, Chicago, IL

Before heading southbound out of the city, I took a brief detour north into Wrigleyville to have breakfast at Julius Meinl Coffeehouse. The St Bernard's name is Berto.

At the corner of Addison Street and Clark Street, Chicago, IL

This could be the year.

North of Wrigley Field on Clark Street, Chicago, IL

On the lakefront near Fullerton Avenue, Chicago, IL

It's difficult to make out, but each of these men is standing on something like a surfboard while rowing north along the lakefront.

At North Avenue Beach, Chicago, IL

I had forgotten that today was Flugtag, during which contestants attempt to fly homemade contraptions off a platform built into the lake. The Crustacean Avengers would win the day.

At North Avenue Beach, Chicago, IL

At North Avenue Beach, Chicago, IL

I came across a gaggle of Red Bull Girls convened near North Avenue. Flugtag is sponsored by Red Bull. The girls were friendly, but jittery.

On the lakefront path near Division Street, Chicago, IL

The runner on the right wears the telltale purple T-shirt from Team in Training, an organization that raises money to fund leukemia research. Team in Training always reminds me of a cartoon from the New Yorker: a doctor leans across his desk to explain to a worried patient, "I'm afraid there's no cure. There isn't even a race for the cure."

Off Oak Street Beach, Chicago, IL

Just down the lakefront from Flugtag, swimmers competed in the 5K Big Shoulders Swim event.

On the lakefront path in Grant Park, Chicago, IL

The Chicago Park District is planning to renovate Buckingham Fountain this fall. The spigot was turned off the day after Labor Day. The project has to be finished by April 1, when the International Olympic Committee visits Chicago.

On the lakefront path in front of Soldier Field, Chicago, IL

The renovations to Soldier Field in 2003 were described by the Chicago Tribune as looking "like the Starship Enterprise crash-landed atop the Parthenon."

On the lakefront path near Roosevelt Road, Chicago, IL

The De La Salle Meteors warmed up before soccer practice.

On South Wentworth Avenue, Chicago, IL

Security was tight at Senator Barack Obama's Hyde Park home. The intersections at both ends of the block were cordoned off, and I encountered police officers and Secret Service agents all over the neighborhood. I didn't see the proverbial red dot on my chest as I took this photo, but I did attract attention. As I passed the police officer manning the southern cordon, his radio crackled, and I heard the voice on the other end say, ominously, "Careful, there's a bike, and it's headed in your direction."

Near 95th Avenue, Chicago, IL

The bas-relief globe on the second story of this building caught my eye. It matches the facade of Schuba's Tavern, one of my favorite live-music venues in Chicago. Apparently Schlitz operated dozens of these tied houses in Chicago before the passage of the 18th Amendment. After the repeal of Prohibition, many states outlawed these tied houses, resulting in the creation of beer distributorships.

On US 41 entering Whiting, IN

On US 41 in front of Whiting Pierogi, Whiting, IN

I was surprised to find a pierogi shop just over the Indiana border. Pierogi are essentially Polish dumplings.

Inside Whiting Pierogi, Whiting, IN

Jim, the owner of Whiting Pierogi, cooked me up four giant meat-and-spinach pierogi. Jim said he does a brisk retail business at this shop and also sells his pierogi, blintzes, and potato pancakes to restaurants and supermarkets in the region. These were the best pierogi I'd ever had.

By a railyard on US 12, East Chicago, IN

On US 12 entering Gary, IN

The current motto, "Gary, Celebrating 100 Years," is an improvement over the one I remember from the early 1990's, and this is not a joke: "Gary, Emphasizing the Positive."

On Industrial Boulevard, Gary, IN

The driver lost control of her car and crashed into an apartment house. She survived the accident.

On Industrial Boulevard, Gary, IN

At the site of the accident, I met Stephen Edwards, who currently works for the Obama campaign. Before signing up with the candidate, he performed stand-up comedy in clubs around Chicago and northwest Indiana. Stephen wanted to make sure I had the correct spelling of his stage-name. It is "Unda Da Influenz."

On Route 51, Hobart, IN

I'd like to think the pun is intentional.

On Route 51 in front of St Mary's Hospital, Hobart, IN

My family and I spent many days this spring visiting a patient in an intensive care unit at this hospital.

Outside my dad's house, Winfield, IN

My dad bought me lunch, and we talked about the election. Unfortunately my step-mom was at work when I passed through.

On Route 231, Demotte, IN

It's been several years since my last bike tour. One thing I had forgotten was the food cravings, particularly for ice cream.

In front of the Jasper County Courthouse, Rensellaer, IN

In front of the Sunset Inn, Remington, IN

I ran out of daylight earlier than expected and nearly made camp in a clearing behind an abandoned fireworks shop by the interstate. After some googling on my phone, I located a hotel with one last vacant room.